Mercedes-Benz Power Steering Line Replacement
Do your Mercedes-Benz steering feel stiff, and you’re constantly adding power steering to your reservoir? Maybe you leak your power steering hoses/lines. Learn how to replace the hoses by following the procedures below.
What you will need
- Power Steering Line
- Floor Jack
- Jack Stands x2
- Mechanic Metric Toolset
- 17mm Socket
Instructions
- Jack up the vehicle and secure it with jack stands.
- Drain the power steering fluid from the reservoir. You will have to suck it out with a syringe or similar.
- Remove the 17mm bolt at the power steering pump.
- Get under the car to access the other end of the line. You will be right below the driver’s footwell. Be careful because two lines go to the power steering rack here. The bolts are very close, and you may remove the wrong bolt.
- Disconnect the wire harness if necessary to make more room.
- Remove the bolt that secures the power steering line to the steering rack.
- Install the new line in reverse order. Ensure you install the copper washers, or you will have a PS leak.
- The bolt that connects to the PS pump has an O ring that needs to go back on.
- Top off the power steering reservoir.
We had a 2001 Mercedes-Benz that had burned the power steering pump. The problem was that the car was losing power steering and needed to be topped off every week.
Well, eventually, the power steering pump burned, and it needed to be replaced. While replacing the pump, we noticed a large leak in the high-pressure line of the PS pump. As you moved the steering wheel, a stream of power steering fluid appeared.
We hope you find the Mercedes-Benz Power Steering Line Replacement guide helpful. Check these troubleshooting and repair guides for more help on your Mercedes-Benz.
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great tutorial with a few details left out.
1) Access to the bolt is very limited, which means that it is difficult to line up the banjo bolt while simultaneously turn it to start threading when reassembling.
If that is the case, initially route the line as horizontal as possible , remove the the rack bolts (and reinforcement C bracket) and and rest it on jack stands in order to gain more access/ clearance.
Removing the rack boot splash shield on the driver side will allow a better view wrench access of the banjo bolts as well as prevent your wrists from being raked/ scratched ( 2 @ 8mm head sheet metal screws viewable from the driver side fender area)
If the rack will need to be lowered, removing the return line ( 22mm socket) will also allow more movement.
a straight line from the left fender ( left wheel off) well with an extension may be the best way to slowly thread in the 19mm head banjo bolt.
PS. If the rack is unbolted, after fastening checking or having your alignment checked is recommended