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Learn how to replace the front brake pads and rotors on the Mazda CX-9, a first-generation crossover SUV. These instructions apply to the following model years: 2007, 2008, 2009, 2010, 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, and 2017.
At a Glance
Fits: 2007 to 2017 Mazda CX-9 (first generation)
Sockets: 21mm lug nuts, 17mm and 19mm caliper and bracket bolts
Time: about 1 to 2 hours for both front wheels
Tip: open the brake fluid cap before pushing the caliper piston back
After: pump the pedal firm and bed in the new pads
Signs Your CX-9 Needs Front Brakes
High pitched squeal when braking: the pad wear indicator is touching the rotor.
Grinding: the pads are worn to the metal backing. Replace pads and rotors right away.
Steering wheel shakes when braking: rotors with uneven thickness, often called warped.
Car pulls to one side: a sticking caliper or slide pin on that side.
Pads thinner than about 3 mm: time to replace them, even if they are quiet.
What you will need
A list of tools and parts required to change the brake pads and rotors on your Mazda CX-9 has been provided below.
Mazda CX-9 Brake Pads & Rotors
17mm and 19mm sockets for the front caliper and bracket bolts
14mm socket (used on the rear brakes)
21mm socket for the lug nuts
Procedure
Start engaging the parking brake and ensure the gear shifter is in the Park. Next, access the brake fluid reservoir. Open the hood and remove the brake fluid reservoir cap. This is necessary and will make it easy later when pressing the caliper piston.
Loosen Lug Nuts. Before raising the car, make sure to break loose the lug nuts. Do not remove them yet; loosen them a turn or so.
Raise Vehicle. Use a floor jack to raise one of the front wheels. Carefully lift the front of your car with a jack and then support both sides of the front with jack stands.
Support with Jack Stands. Always support the vehicle with jack stands; do not rely only on a jack. In addition to the jack stands and jacks, we recommend sliding the wheels under the car, removing the tire, and removing the lug nut.
Remove the brake fluid cap from the container. The brake reservoir is located at the back right of the engine bay, towards the driver’s side.
Press the caliper piston. This is the time to use a flat screwdriver to press the caliper piston in. If you use the C-Clamp or Brake Pad Compression tool, skip this step.
Remove Caliper Bolts. Locate the two bolts on the back of the front brake caliper and remove both bolts. Use a 17mm socket and a ratcheting wrench to loosen the lower and upper caliper bolts on the caliper’s back and pull each bolt slightly out. You need to slide them out to allow room to remove the caliper.
Remove Brake Pads. Once you remove the two bolts, you will pull out the caliper and remove the brake pads. Use a Phillips screwdriver to loosen the two rotor retaining bolts, which can be challenging to come out.
Notice the location of the wear sensors. If your vehicle uses wear sensors, notice the sensor’s location and the orientation of the wires. You need to make sure to install the new sensors similarly.
Secure the brake caliper. Use a wire to secure the brake caliper. Do not let the caliper hang, as this can damage the brake hose. Lift the caliper off the brake pads and tie it with rope to the strut to keep it from falling and voiding, putting tension on the brake line.
Remove the Brake Pad Bracket. Before removing the rotor, remove the brake pad/caliper bracket. It is held in place with two bolts. Typically, these are 17mm bolts. Remove the bolts using a breaker bar.
Removing the old rotor can be tricky. First, remove the screw that holds the rotor secure. Next, you need to remove the rotor. Try wiggling the rotor back and forth. If the rotor does not come loose, you may have to use a hammer to get it off. Also, spray penetrating oil and let it sit for 10 minutes before you try to remove the rotor. Spray only where the rotor meets the hub, keep it off the pads and the braking surface, and clean everything with brake cleaner before you reassemble.
It is time to install the new rotor. We recommend cleaning the hub area with a steel wire brush before installing the new rotor. Compare the old and the new rotors to ensure they are the same size and thickness, then carefully fit the new rotor. If you install new slotted rotors, ensure they are fitted correctly to spin in the proper direction.
Install the new rotor. Slide the new rotor in place. Tighten the rotor retaining bolts.
Next, install the bracket and tighten the two bolts on the back. Remember, the bolts on the back of the brake pad bracket must be tight. If you use a torque wrench, torque them at 70 ft-lbs.
Using a dry towel or a rag, you can clean the dirt from the calipers and the pistons with a special spray for cleaning brake parts.
The new brake pads will probably be thicker than the older ones; you must use an even surface (e.g., the old brake pad) to press back the caliper pistons to fit the new brake pads inside the brake calipers. A C-clamp can be used to compress the pistons backward. Don’t push the pistons too far until the pistons are in line with the rubber dust boot. Put the new brake pads in place; ensure they are tightly and well-fitted.
After fitting the new brake pads, you might experience light braking noise or squeaking; you can use CRC Disc Brake Quiet for brake pads to eliminate that noise.
Install new caliper. Loosen the caliper from the rope carefully and tighten the lower caliper bolt using a 17mm socket and ratcheting wrench. Use brake caliper grease to lubricate the caliper bolts. Install a new caliper and tighten the two bolts.
Refit the front wheel and spin the lug nuts with your hand. Tighten the lug nuts in a criss-cross pattern. Lower the vehicle until it puts some weight onto the wheel to prevent it from spinning, then complete tightening the lug nuts.
Get into the driver’s seat, start the car, and pump the brake pedal a few times to restore brake pressure.
Check the brake fluid level in the container and ensure it is above the “MIN” (minimum) indicator. If it is low, add the recommended brake fluid. Once the brake fluid level is correct, replace the container cap.
For more help with your Mazda, check these troubleshooting and repair guides.
From a USA company built by car enthusiasts for car owners.
After the Brake Job
Before moving the car, pump the brake pedal until it feels firm. The pistons need to move back out against the new pads.
Check the brake fluid level and top up to MAX if needed.
Bed in the new pads: make several moderate stops from about 35 mph to 5 mph without coming to a full stop, then drive a few minutes to let the brakes cool.
Recheck the wheel lug nut torque after the first few miles.
Still Noisy or Pulling After New Pads?
Squeal: missing shims or no brake grease on the pad backing plates and slide points.
Grinding: a pad installed backward or a stone caught between the rotor and dust shield.
Pulling to one side: a sticking caliper slide pin or piston on that side.
Vibration: rotors that are warped or were not replaced.
NOTES
If your brake pedal used to feel soft, you might need to bleed the brake lines to flush out any air bubbles and/or replace the old brake fluid with new DOT3 brake fluid.
Check your car regularly for signs of brake fluid leaks and ensure the brake fluid volume does not decrease significantly.
Check that the lug nuts are correctly tightened.
Frequently Asked Questions
How long do Mazda CX-9 front brake pads last?
Typically 30,000 to 60,000 miles, depending on driving style, load and the type of pads.
Should I replace the rotors with the pads?
Replace them if they are below minimum thickness, grooved, or cause vibration. Many owners replace both together for the best feel and quieter braking.
Why is my brake pedal soft after a pad change?
The caliper pistons need to move back out. Pump the pedal until it is firm before driving, and check the fluid level.
