Jordan Hill is an ASE Master Certified Technician with over 24 years of experience diagnosing and repairing all makes and models, from domestic light trucks to high-performance imports. Known for his expertise in advanced diagnostics, electrical troubleshooting, ADAS calibration, and hybrid/electric vehicle systems, Jordan has managed shops, led teams, and mentored the next generation of technicians. His work blends hands-on mechanical skill with cutting-edge technology, including factory scan tools, lab scopes, and remote diagnostic platforms.... Read more
Wiring is the central nervous system of an automobile. Almost every vehicle component requires an electrical connection to function properly. Late-model vehicles have upwards of 5,000 feet of wiring running through the body and chassis. When there is an issue with a vehicle’s wiring, any number of problems can arise. What about one wire? How much damage can one wire do? Stay tuned to find out.
A 2018 Ram Promaster 2500 was brought into the shop. The ABS light was on, and a loud grinding noise was coming from the rear wheels. This van was a delivery vehicle, and it was clear it had lived a hard, thankless life: multiple drivers, limited maintenance, and plenty of dents and dings. Road testing this Ram was out of the question; just getting it inside the shop was hard enough. The right rear wheel sounded like it was about to fall off.
I began the inspection with a fault scan, which revealed a C003A code for a Right Rear Speed Sensor: General Electrical Failure. With the correct height adapters installed on the lift arms, the van was raised off the ground. However, due to the high roof, it could only be lifted a few feet off the ground.
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Before even removing the rear wheels, it was clear there was a serious issue. The plastic center cap was melted, and the steel wheel was discolored on the right rear wheel. Once the wheels were removed, the picture became even bleaker. The right rear rotor and brake pads were discolored due to severe overheating, and the wheel bearing disintegrated when the hub nut was removed. The cause of the ABS light was also quickly determined. The end of the wheel speed sensor had melted because either the right rear caliper had locked up or the parking brake was stuck on.
I wrote up a list of parts I would need for this repair and submitted it to my shop’s service writer. After receiving approval, the parts were sourced and ordered. Most of the brake parts arrived the following morning, except for the parking brake cable retaining clips, which were on backorder.
After the back-ordered brake cable clip arrived, reassembly could finally be finished. Installation was uneventful, and as the torque wrench clicked to 145 ft-lbs on the final wheel bolt, the van was ready to be road-tested.
The road test was also uneventful. There were no brake or bearing noises. An…
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