My name is Glenn. 37 and a proud father of 4 beautiful kids ranging from age 16 all the way down to age 3. I have been a tech for about 7 years now.... Read more
Olivia turns rough diagnostics into clear, step-by-step guides—tight edits, plain-language rewrites, and meticulous fact-checks that hold up in the driveway. Olivia’s craft is editing: she restructures repair walkthroughs, clarifies terminology, verifies steps with techs, and ships instructions that work on the first read. From tightening headlines to cleaning screenshots and torque specs, Olivia polishes every detail so YOUCANIC guides are accurate, consistent, and easy to follow.
Today’s customer arrived with the check engine light illuminated on the dashboard of their 2016 Ford Transit. Thankfully, that was the only problem. There were no other noticeable drivability issues.
I started by reading codes with my full-system scanner and found the code, P139C (Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) Sensor C Downstream Hose Off or Clogged), in the vehicle’s Powertrain Control Module (PCM). Now that I had a direction, the first step was to inspect the Differential Pressure Feedback Sensor EGR (DPFE) sensor harness for obvious signs of damage.
There were no visible issues; no obvious signs of corrosion or damage were visible, so I pulled out the hoses to check for water or carbon buildup. While I didn’t find any signs of carbon buildup, there were obvious signs of moisture in both the sensor and hoses.
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Service data suggested that I should replace the sensor at this point, but I really don’t trust such a short diagnosis resulting in “replace the part”. So, before completely replacing the sensor, I used an air nozzle to blow the water out of the hoses. (The hoses were still disconnected at this point.) Next, the DPFE voltage data needed to be pulled up on my full-system scanner . The DPFE raw can be loaded as well, but that was not a necessity at that time.
With the van key turned to position I (the vehicle is on, but the engine is not), the voltage should be between 3.2 and 3.8 volts. Anything outside this range indicates a failed sensor. This sensor showed around 2.5V at this stage. 2 marks for the sensor being bad, but make sure to follow your testing all the way to the end. Apply between 20 and 25 psi of vacuum pressure. The voltage should increase to over 4 volts. This one did. Release the vacuum, and watch the voltage. It should instantly drop back to between 3.2 and 3.8V again. This sensor dropped back to around 2.5V, but the reaction speed in…
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